Slicer: https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/ for Prusa MK3
Material Selection and Configurations
We commonly print in three materials, PLA, PETG, and carbon fiber PETG (commonly called CF PETG on our team). PLA is good for low-stress and low-temperature applications, like cabin seats, and for prototyping as it is inexpensive but not particularly strong with a lower melting point than our other filaments. PETG is good for applications with small loads, like a sensor mount, and/or lots of heat, like an ESC case. CF PETG should be used for any structural prints, like motor mounts, as is it quite strong and has a high melting point. If you expect many iterations to test geometry and fits, it is best to print your prototypes out of PLA or PETG as our CF PETG is more expensive.
The Prusa Slicer has a dropdown for filament, these defaults usually work well but sometimes the temperature suggestions for our filament will vary slightly.
To change the filament type in Prusa Slicer:
Click the filament dropdown
If you see the type of filament in the dropdown, select it
If you don’t see it, you can select Add/Remove filaments and you will be given a larger array of filaments
You can view/edit the temperature settings for the selected filament by clicking the gear next to the filament dropdown, it is good practice to check this against the temperature specs on the filament roll.
If you are printing with PLA:
The default settings for “Generic PLA” are usually good, just double-check the specific roll if you haven’t used it before.
If you are printing with PETG:
The default settings for “Generic PETG” are a good starting point, but we have had better success with a hotter nozzle on the first layer and a cooler one on the rest. You may want to modify these to look more like this:
It is best to check these temperatures against those on the filament roll if you haven’t used it before.
If you are printing in CF PETG:
The default settings for “Kimya PETG Carbon” are a good starting point, but we recommend changing them slightly to look like this:
Print Troubleshooting
If the first layer isn’t sticking:
Clean the build plate with rubbing alcohol
Clean the build plate with soap and water, dry well
Clean the build plate with acetone (PEI sheets only)
Print with a raft
Print the first layer at a slower speed
Recalibrate it until the filament is coming out the correct amount and adhering to the build plate
If filament isn't extruding and/or the extruder is making a clicking noise
Check that the correct extruder temperature is set
Unload the filament, cut the end, and reload the filament
Recalibrate first layer
Check nozzle for jams by inserting needle into the end, there are needles in the red bins next to the printer
If print won't come off the print bed
Put the print bed in the freezer and wait 20 minutes, then try to remove print again
Flex the print bed
Heat the print bed again and try to remove the print
If it is still stuck, use acetone, this will ruin the print but will save the more expensive bed
Updating Firmware
You need a USB B plug to update the firmware. Look in the cable bins on the electrical shelf to find one, and follow this youtube tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4IrBGgJa90